SRX Customization Instructions

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SRX Customization Instructions.

The following pictures and explanation are provided by at Stefan Rrahovean with his SRX Customization Package For Motorboard. Please see that page for more information.

Caution, do not attempt to do this unless you are familiar with high amperage batteries and take all the standard precautions.

Unscrew the deck

1) Unscrew the deck and remove it.

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Remove the brake cable

2) Remove the brake cable by pulling it out of its refuge.

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Take out old battery

3) Remove the black plastic cover and take out the old battery (depending on the Motorboard model, you might have different connection plugs)

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P.S.: Since 70% of all Motorboards are 2000X model, I decided to use it in this instruction manual. The differences between models are small and you will probably know what to do if you have a different model. Please contact me if anything you see in this manual is confusing you in any way.

Remove charging plug

4) Unscrew the nut which is on the exterior side of your charging female plug (depending on the model, you can have different plugs). After you removed the nut, push in the plug with your fingers until it comes out on the other side.

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Disconnect existing controller

5) Remove all the plugs from your existing controller, starting with the switch connectors. After you remove those, you still need to remove the other 4 motor connectors. There are 2 red ones on the upper side and 2 black ones underneath the control board. These are a little trickier to remove. Just stick your fingers in there and pull them out.

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Remove switch

6) Remove the switch. You start by pushing in the plastic anchors with a regular screwdriver, first on the left side of the switch and at the same time use your free hand to push out the left side of the switch

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After the left side of the switch is out use a smaller screwdriver to push in the anchors on the right side while with your other hand you push the switch out. Try to use a flashlight so you can better understand how the switch is anchored in. You might have to push a little but don’t give up.

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Unscrew metal plate from motor sled

7) After the switch, the charging plug and the motor connectors are removed it is time to unscrew the metal plate.

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Remove old controller

8) Take out the old controller with the metal plate and also pull out the black wheel connected to one of your motors. That wheel is responsible for the 3 mile/hour kick in feature. You will not have that anymore. You can cruise around at 1 mile/hour without a problem. At this step you should cut the black throttle cable one inch away from the old controller and strip it down a few inches so you can have access to the small wires inside. Do not cut the small wires while stripping the black tubular cover.

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Install memory foam

9) Place the memory foam on the aluminum bed of the Motorboard.

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Install new customized controller

10) Place the new customized controller with the wires facing up. Then, connect the motor plugs to the motors. The blue wire (the base wire is blue) must go to the upper male pins of the motors, while the white wire (the base wire is white) goes to the bottom pins of the motors. You should use your original motor wires & plugs for a snug fit).

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Connect switch plugs

11) Connect the switch plugs to the switch. These are two thin wires, one white and one yellow. In addition, connect the thin blue wire which goes to the voltmeter (positive+) to the yellow switch wire. Connecting these two wires together (yellow-switch and blue-voltmeter) will turn on the voltmeter only when you turn the Motorboard switch to the ON position. Basically, your switch will now control the Motorboard and the voltmeter simultaneously.

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Connect throttle wires

12) The next step is to take three of the throttle wires and connect them with the corresponding wires from the new controller. Make sure that the colors of your wires match perfectly. You have a thin red, a thin black wire and a thin green wire. You need to solder them for a better connection. After you solder them you must insulate them. For a better insulation you should use heat shrink tubing. You can also choose a different method of insulation. Do not leave them without insulation.

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Cut tape around battery wires

13) Take the four battery cells and cut one centimeter on each side of the tape surrounding the cables. This way you ensure that there will be no pressure on the wires. This step is not a must but it is recommended. Please do not cut the wires in any way. Just cut a little bit of the tape close to them.

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Insert four battery cells

13) Place the four battery cells with the cables facing each other for easier connection purposes. I only used 2 battery cells so you can better see the logic behind the connection. Each battery cell must be connected in parallel, meaning, you must have a joint connection of all 6 red (+) wires (you have 4 red wires coming from the battery cells, one thick red wire from the controller and another red wire coming from the charging plug). Moreover, if you want to have a non-stop working voltmeter, you should connect the thin blue wire which goes to the digital voltmeter to the 6 red wires. However, if you wish to have a voltmeter which only works when you turn on the Motorboard, then you should connect the blue wire to the yellow switch wire attached to controller (connection mentioned earlier). Make sure that you have a big enough twist wire cap. Also, you might need to extend the red wires coming from the controller and the charging plug. You do the same connection for the black (-) wires (6 black wires and one yellow voltmeter wire joint together under the same electrical twist cap).

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Make sure that the wires are all secured under the electrical twist cap and position them between the battery cells. Don’t let them stay on top of the battery. If you find it hard to move them, try to use an electrical tape to group them together for a better handling. For extending the 2 controller wires going to the battery you may choose to solder and insulate them or you may choose to connect them with an electrical twist cap. You should do the same for the wires coming from the charging plug since they are not long enough to reach the battery cells’ parallel connection.

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Insert parallel balancing port

14) After you connect all the main battery wires in parallel, you should use my latest addition to this project which is the parallel balancing port. This balancing port is custom made by me and it allows you to balance your Lipo batteries as one battery pack every time you charge your Motorboard, therefore, giving you the full potential of your batteries and also eliminating the risk of over-charging your batteries which can be dangerous. I attached a scanned picture of it on the following page. Just remember to plug in the small balancing ports that come with your batteries in each of those four plugs AFTER you connect and insulate the main battery wires (black and red). It is imperative that you do this in this sequence because otherwise you can cause a short within your battery if any of the main wires touches by mistake. The balancing cable comes with a Velcro piece which will be attached on the back of the deck.

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Insert rubber pads

15) Now, you should use your original screws and get them in the deck. After you do that, you take the rubber pads/rubber washers and place them around the screws as shown in photo below:

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You will also get a 5th rubber pad for the back side of your deck. That rubber pad helps reduce the vibrations even more. Also in case you can not fit the deck perfectly on the frame, you should scrape a little bit of the front edge shown above.

Screw on desk

16) Screw in your deck and you’re almost good to go.

Remove original throttle

17) Remove your original throttle and replace it with the new one. You should also cut the cables and adjust them to your desired length. Connect the 3 throttle wires according to their color. For the digital voltmeter connect the blue wire coming from the battery to its black with a white stripe wire and the yellow wire goes with the black wire of the voltmeter. You should solder them individually and then insulate each of them with heat shrink rubber. Use a Velcro double pad to stick your digital voltmeter onto the handle bar.

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Charger / Balancer

18) Lastly, we have the charger which is also a balancer. I suggested the IMAX B6 due to its reduced price; however, if you want a reputable Lipo charger/balancer you should get a MaxPro or Triton charger/balancer or you can even do your own web search for the best Lipo charger. You should balance the battery every time you charge the scooter for optimal results. This takes exactly the same time as a regular charge; therefore, it is highly advisable to use it every time you charge the battery. Also, you must never charge the batteries right after you rode your Motorboard. It is highly recommended that you wait about half an hour, so your battery cells can cool off before charging them. The battery should never go under 15 volts, therefore, you should make sure that you read the voltmeter once in a while to see when the voltage is approaching 15 volts. You will feel it when it’s time to call it a day. You get more than one hour of continuous riding at amazing speeds and acceleration. You can also connect the digital voltmeter directly to the motors in which case you can see how the voltage increases as you accelerate. By doing this type of connection, the only way in which you can see the battery’s overall voltage is to accelerate to the maximum. That number should not be below 15 volts. Please read a few things about charging and balancing Lipo batteries before your actual customization. As for the charger, I made 2 three way connections with the original plug from my old charger and the two crocodile clips which came with the IMAX. You can do the same thing or you can just have a simple connection without the crocodile clips which is much safer. Only if you need to use the charger to charge different types of batteries I would recommend the crocodile clips, otherwise, just keep it simple. Below you can see what I did with the charger:

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P.S.: for improved ventilation to the motors, you can buy one of those small (50x50mm) 24v computer fans and place it between the controller and the motors making sure that no wire interferes with the rotating blade. Try to support it with a rubber bicycle tire tube and you can also custom build a thin bendable metal and screw it in on the scooter frame and then attach it to the small fan by using 2 bolts and nuts. After you have the fan well placed inside, you can connect its two wires to the two motor controller wires (blue+ and white-). Make sure you connect them so your fan blows the air in the direction of the motors. This is the best connection choice because the faster your motors spin the faster your small fan will spin synchronizing perfectly with each other.

If you have any questions about this project, feel free to contact me at

- Ride with Passion-